Category: Tech

A few posts ago I showed how I added auxiliary power to my F800.  I wasn’t completely satisfied with my relay and fuse block setup I  installed.  When I was searching on INNOVV’s C3 camera I found the Power Hub 1.  It consist of a control module and 5 inline fuses circuits to add your accessories.  Each fuse is rated for 5 amps, with a total of 40 amps for all circuits.  It is designed to be connected directly to the battery with both power and ground.  The power wire has an inline 40 amp fuse.  There is also a trigger wire and a ground output wire.  In this post I will show how  installed the Power Hub 1 on my 2015 BMW F800 GS Adventure.  There are several options for switching the unit on including the factory GPS connector.  Other options for switching are the tail light or the front park light.  

At $69, it is the best deal I have found.  It is pretty straight forward and easy to install and priced way below the other options on the market.  The case is sealed against the weather and has a simple LED light to indicate status.  The module switches on 10 seconds after power is applied to the switching wire.

The Power Hub 1 comes with everything you will need to install on most motorcycles, including crimp connectors, battery connectors, and a tap for the switching wire.  

I had already done some of the work when I installed my relay and fuse block.  Here is a picture of the GPS connector (the black plug at bottom), located on top of the battery. 

There are several options for locating the module. I decided to put it back in the tail of the bike.  I was able to really clean things up compared to how it looked before, removing most loose wires from under the seat.  All wire runs were wrapped in friction/cloth tape (thanks Alyxmoto for the advice) and routed closer to the frame and hidden under the trim.

So far I only have the USB 5v converter for the GPS, the automatic gate opener and higher amp factory style plug for powering the CyclePump Air Compressor.  

I like to make stuff.  I’m also cheap (right, so that’s why I got a BMW motorcycle?)!  I’m going to step through how I made a set of mounts to attach 20 millimeter ammo cans to the factory pannier racks on a 2015 BMW F 800 GS Adventure.  I found my ammo cans from a local Craigslist seller.  If you are interested, search “large ammo can” on seattle.craigslist.com.  They were $30 each and located in Tumwater.  The cans are approx 8-3/8″ x 18-5/8″ x 14-7/16″ and weigh about 20 lbs each.  I figure this is about comparable to a 36 liter pannier.  He had a great inventory of all sorts of surplus ammo cans of various sizes.  I painted mine black on the outside and silver (to make it easier to find stuff) on the inside.

My first step was make a sheet metal bender to make the 6 bends I needed.  I have a few other projects that I will be using it for.  I had a good sized chunk of 8″ channel iron. 

I made a few test bends in some scrap I had.  The “triangle” for the left side will be the trickiest.  I had a few small pieces of 16 ga steel and a few pieces of aluminum.  I liked how the aluminum bent and it’s weight, but I’m not able to weld it.

The most difficult part of the project was figuring out how the tabs that will engage the factory rack would be made and how the boxes would be locked to the rack frame. I took some pictures of the factory boxes on a bike at work.  

I decided to make the mounts out of 16 ga.  It will be heavier but a bit stronger than 18 ga.  I thought about getting a bead roller and trying to add some strength that way, but that would be another learning curve.  I started with the easier bends (the right side), before trying the left.  My bender was just small enough to be able to make the “triangle” on the left mount but I had to take the bender apart to get the steel back out.

I made the tabs by cutting a rectangle in half so that the angle would be close the angle of the ears on the rack.  I didn’t want to have to measure and guess each tab location so I took the rack frames off the bike and used them as jigs. This mostly worked.  I should have double checked fit a few more times while I was finishing the welds. 

The last thing to figure out was the method and location of the “locking” mechanism.  I really like the quick release design of the factory boxes.  The factory latch also works as the weak point if the boxes are hit hard, allowing the box to pop off with out bending the frame.  I ended up just making a clamp that attaches from the inside with a T-handle bolt.

After painting the mounts to match the boxes, I installed them to the boxes with 4 stainless steel #10 cap screws per box.  Since I will mainly be using these for around town and will likely switch to soft luggage for any long trips that see off-pavement I think the 4 screws will be enough.  In addition, there is the 1/4 stainless bolt holding them to the frame.

Here they are all mounted up.

I installed some of the DOT reflector tape that is used on commercial trucks and trailers.  This should help with visibility from the back.

Total cost was approximately $130:

• $60 for both boxes;
• $20 for metal, (I got a full sheet of 16 ga sheet metal for $80 but used less than a quarter of it);
• $30 for various bolts and hardware, and;
• $20 for 4 keyed alike locks.

 

 

 

I don’t know why, but I like to try and fit winches into the stock bumper. Here I will install a Warn Industries 9.5ti winch into my ’95 FZJ80 Land Cruiser. A standard configuration winch would have been much easier to install, as the 9.5ti has the solenoids mounted inside the top cross brace. This required extra clearance when figuring out how to position the winch.

To start with, I fabricated some frame horn extensions that the winch mounting plate will be attached. I used the existing mounting holes and the stock extensions as the pattern. I also used the stock extensions as the outside of the bracket and to fill in the front.

Next, I made my winch plate from some 1/4X 4″ square tube. I copied an old winch plate that I had modified for my FJ60 Winch Installation. Due to the dimensions of the winch and the space between the frame rails, the plate is slightly asymmetric.

After some careful measuring, I trimmed the lower valance to fit the top of the winch

After welding the plate to the extensions, I trimmed the plate 4.5″ on each side, in the front so I didn’t have to trim too much of the bumper. It’s hard to see, but there is a 45deg filler welded in. I didn’t just want to trim the front of the plate like I had seen on some other installs, thinking the more structural support, the better.

Installed in the front before installing the bumper.

It isn’t centered in the bumper, but doesn’t look too bad. It took several trim, fit, trim sequences before I got it right, without removing too much bumper.

You can’t see it in this picture, but I also trimmed the top of the bumper so the cord can be plugged in, the brake lever can be operated and to hopefully aid in cooling. There still needs to be a little trim added to the sharp edges, but it’s all buttoned up.

Have you ever found a nail or screw in your tire but are too far away from a tire shop or don’t have time to take it to stop and get it repaired? This simple kit will help get you home.  The ARB Speedy Seal Tire Repair Kit has everything you need.

Locate the foreign object and move the tire to access it, or remove the tire from the vehicle.  Make sure the tire is full of air.

I like to have everything prepped and ready to go before removing the nail or screw.  Thread one repair cord through the eye of the insertion handle.

The kit comes with grease for the awl.  This helps properly size the hole without causing additional damage.

After using a suitable pair of pliers or a screwdriver to remove the nail or screw, clean out the whole with the awl.

Insert the plug patch handle, with patch cord installed, all the way making sure to seat the collar all the way to the tire..

Holding the collar, pull the handle out, leaving just the plug cord in the tire.

As you drive, the plug will bond with the tire making a solid permanent seal.  These patches are not intended to fix a sidewall puncture, nor are they intended for repairing a large gash or tire slash.  It is always a good idea to have the tire inspected by a reputable tire repair facility for additional damage that may have been caused.